The Grand Tour III: All Roads Lead To Rome

Like the cultured young gentlemen centuries before, our Grand Tour ended in Rome. The idea was that  exposure to the great works of antiquity and the Renaissance would give these gentlemen the polish they needed before moving in society. So after five days in sunny Dubrovnik we boarded a night ferry and traveled across the Adriatic to Bari in order to get some polish.

Since it was the low season only one ferry company was running and because we booked our tickets  just three days in advance we ended up with seats on the deck instead of a cabin. I think the ten hour bus ride may actually have been more comfortable because there weren't immovable armrests between each seat and we weren't kept awake and then woken up by super loud Italians roughly my parents age who were partying next to us. FYI: no one wants to hear A Whiter Shade of Pale being blasted from your iPhone at 6 in the morning, old Italian guy. Eventually it was time to get off the boat and find some much needed coffee. We took a bus to the train station in Bari that was driven by one of the handsomest men I've ever seen in real life. That's Italy for you--even the bus drivers are hot. 

Our train wasn't leaving for a few hours so we parked it in a cafe for some espresso and cornettos, which are like Italian croissants. All through the trip my cousin Katie had been talking about the coffee in Italy and how amazing it is. Now, I'm not saying I didn't believe her, because I did. I just didn't know what that actually meant. I see that now. I had coffee and espresso in every country I went to and while none of it was bad per se (with the exception of the instant coffee topped with cool whip we had on the train in Budapest) none of it was this good. Like the croissant I had from Stohrer in Paris, this cappuccino was on an entirely different level I didn't even know existed. And they all tasted that good. Everywhere we went! Ugh. I can't talk about it anymore because it's making me sad just to think about.

Moving on. As we progressed through our trip proximity to the train station became increasingly important because it just made things a lot less complicated. Thus, when I started looking for our hotel in Rome I only considered places within walking distance of the Roma Termini, the city's main train station. I feel like I should mention that I used Booking.com for most of our reservations because they seemed to list more independent and family-run places than say, Hotels.com. I usually then cross-checked potential places with TripAdvisor just to make extra sure the place was legit.

Rome is pricey, like Paris pricey--but unlike Paris my hotel wasn't free. I ended up finding a budget hotel for $37 per person per night. Of course, calling what we stayed in a 'hotel' might be stretching it but our room was clean, had three beds, and a private bathroom. It certainly wasn't located in the nicest neighborhood and at night it looked downright sketchy, but the worst thing that happened was some creepy guy said 'I love you' when I walked by and really, creepy guys saying 'I love you' can happen anywhere. 

So after a few hours on the train we arrived in Rome very excited, but also tired and hungry. We all needed some cash so we went to an atm on our way to the hotel. This is when The Bad Thing happened. Katie went first and got her cash then I went. The way the atms work there is they give you your card back and then your cash, except my card got stuck in the card slot. I could see it there but I couldn't grab it. Naturally, I started to panic and pressed on it thinking the machine would spit it back out again more forcefully. This didn't happen. Nothing happened. My card went back in and then the machine stopped working. No money, no card. Oh, it was also around 6 pm so the bank itself was closed for the day.

Next to the bank was some kind of auto parts store, or maybe it was an auto club like AAA--I don't know, I don't speak Italian. Anyways, my cousin asked a man who was working there to come help us and he was even more handsome than the bus driver from earlier. Unfortunately, he didn't have any better luck so he suggested we come back the following day. I felt completely helpless, but there was nothing we could do at that point so I mostly focused on not freaking out. I bring up this whole situation because it was a good learning experience.

I had tried to go to the atm earlier in the day when we were in Bari, but my card wasn't working there. Why, I don't know. Perhaps the universe wanted me to have this terrible experience so I could share it with you. So, here it is: If you're using an atm, try to use one attached to an actual bank that is open in case your card gets eaten before you can get your cash. The best (worst) part is that the transaction still showed up on my bank account. I got my card back the next day but the very unhelpful bank manager basically said it wasn't his bank's problem and that I needed to take it up with my bank. When I got home I explained the whole situation to my bank and they filed a dispute and comped me the money. That was almost two months ago and I haven't heard anything, so I'm guessing it all worked out in the end.

But, back to my first day in Rome. After checking into the hotel we went for dinner at Sapori e Delizie, a lovely neighborhood pizzeria I found using TripAdvisor's Rome city app. TripAdvisor has a bunch of these free apps for different cities and they were so helpful to us during our travels. Not only did we find great places to eat but the Point Me There feature was invaluable. And it works even if you don't have a phone plan or wi-fi! I only wish I had realized that sooner than Vienna...

By this point I hadn't had a beer since Oktoberfest but given the day's events a giant Peroni was looking pretty great. We ordered a few pizzas along with arancini, fried zucchini flowers, and grilled vegetables. Everything was delicious and cheap--my favorites. I know I said earlier that Rome was on par with Paris price-wise, and in a lot of ways it is, but I think it's cheaper to have a great meal in Rome than in Paris because some of the best Italian food tends to be made from less expensive ingredients. Pizza, pasta, and vegetables aren't terribly expensive. Duck confit is. This place also had a delish spicy olive oil that I am still desperately trying to recreate here at home.

We only had three full days in the eternal city, but that was enough time to hit all the major tourist spots. We spent a day touring the Vatican museums (if you go on Wednesday during the Papal Audience it isn't as crowded) and getting pushed around St. Peter's Basilica. The museums are actually a collection of 54 art galleries and pontifical museums culminating with the Sistine chapel. It is a huge and impressive collection of art that rivals (if not surpasses) the Louvre. In particular, I think the experience of seeing the Sistine chapel was much more satisfying than seeing the Mona Lisa.

The Basilica itself is beautiful but verrrrry ornate. Gold and marble everywhere. It was a bit of a shock after spending time in the more *ahem* austere churches of England and Germany. What I'm saying is...I can see why the Reformation happened.

We then hiked up to the top of the Duomo, which was about as high as St. Paul's but an easier climb and not as scary as the Golden Gallery. I yelled at some obnoxious guy trying to sell us tickets which felt weird since we were right in front of the Vatican, but it was the only thing that got him to stop. On reflection, I did a lot of yelling in Rome. The street vendors are relentless.

When we visited the Spanish Steps vendors were everywhere hocking these little squishy balls that would splat on the ground and then reform. They also made this almost mournful noise, like a broken squeezebox, so in my mind my visit to the Spanish Steps is accompanied by a chorus of dying musical instruments. In addition, there are also guys trying to sell you roses and when you say no they then try to hand you one like it's a gift or something, but don't take it! This also resulted in me having to yell again. Here is a candid photo of me after the 50th guy tried to give me a flower:

I realize that so far it sounds like I didn't really like Rome, but that's not true at all. Right after this photo was taken we went to the Keats-Shelley House which is beside the Spanish Steps. A visit here seemed quite fitting since I had visited his home in Hampstead months before and kind of made the whole trip come full circle. There we learned all about the Romantics and their connection to Rome and even saw the room where John Keats tragically died at just 25 from tuberculosis.

We also toured the Colosseum and the Roman Forum where I developed a new obsession with the Vestal Virgins and learned that people don't like it when you go around yelling 'Are you not entertained??' Man, remember when Russell Crowe was bad-ass and hot? Those were the days.

As I'm writing this I'm realizing something: I could go on and on about all the places we visited and the foods we ate, but to be honest we did what everyone does when they go to Rome: we ate, we drank, we saw everything one is supposed to see--not exactly breaking the mold. But even still, it was magical.  I can see why the traditional Grand Tour ended in Rome because it really does live up to the hype. Even the annoying bits, and boy were there a lot, didn't take away from the experience. Rome is an easy and fun place to visit. Everyone pretty much speaks English and they aren't dicks about it like the French. The food is delicious, the weather was great, and the whole city really does have this relaxed 'La Dolce Vita' vibe that is infectious.

But for me Rome was also the end of the road. 

After three months abroad this was my final stop before heading home--the culmination of a year spent first on meticulous planning and then on traveling. By this point I was exhausted and looking forward to plopping on the couch for a while, but at the same time I was scared about returning home and going back to 'real life'. I had seen so much and got used to spending my days exploring the wonders of Europe. I didn't want to lose that excitement, that enthusiasm on my return.

I think you learn more about yourself when you travel than you do about the places you visit and looking back I'm not sure I knew what I wanted to get out of this trip when I first left. I think I had some vague hope about going away and having everything change for the better while I was on the road and in a lot of ways it did, but not how I expected. I didn't come back with a book deal or a dream job--nothing external. Instead, the changes I experienced were emotional. I learned things about myself and what I am capable of because that is what travel does. So to merely talk about what I saw and did and ate doesn't really tell you about my experience in Rome. What I want is for you to go out and experience something that truly moves you, changes you in some fundamental way. 

I've been home for nearly two months now and it hasn't been easy. There's a kind of depression that settles over you after returning from a big trip like this one. It's strange because even though I feel like I've changed, home still seems the same as when I left. There's a bit of a disconnect initially and getting over that involves going back to the way things were. I suppose that's partly why writing these last few posts have been so difficult because it means it's really over. Everyone keeps asking me what my next trip is but I honestly don't know. I want to figure out how to be content at home first before I go away again. 

The Grand Tour Part II: Budapest and Dubrovnik

After Vienna we boarded a Railjet train (the train that may or may not turn into a plane) for Budapest. This was when that expensive first class Eurail ticket was actually worth it--big leather seats, actual working wifi (!),  complimentary snacks, and entry into the first-class lounge before boarding. It was also our shortest trip at 2 1/2 hours because, of course. 

 The city is huge, one of the largest in the EU, and is separated by the Danube River (you know, this one) with Buda on one side and Pest on the other. We were only in town for a couple of nights though so I'm not sure we really got the full 'Budapest' experience, but it was the cheapest place we stayed--$11 per person per night for a triple in a pension in Buda. The thing I was most excited about though was the baths. The city is home to over 80 thermal springs that feed the baths enjoyed by locals and tourists alike (here's a good overview). After doing some research I decided to check out the famous Gellert Baths because it was within walking distance and is designed in the Art Nouveau style. I always base my bath house choices on which artistic movement they favor. Get out of here, Dadaists!

It's important to do your research because some baths are men or women only on certain days. We also couldn't figure out whether or not it was customary to wear bathing suits, but at Gellert everyone wore a suit and they even sold them in the lobby. 

Apparently it is one of the most photographed baths in the world but I felt a little weird taking pictures inside when people were relaxing, so here's a link to other people's photos. Really though, it is a beautiful building--just like you would imagine a Hungarian bath house to be.

In addition to a large Roman-style swimming pool, there are several outdoor pools as well as indoor thermal pools of varying degrees. My ever-present sore hip demanded that I head straight for the warmest pool, which was 106 degrees. After we spent some time in the warmer pools we decided to take the plunge in the 68 degree pool and after the initial shock it was actually really refreshing. When you get out your skin feels all warm and tingly and your muscles feel like they're expanding and contracting--it's hard to describe. We hopped around from pool to pool and every time I got to the cool one I tried to stay in longer, though I probably only worked my way up to a full minute. It was also really interesting to see so many different people of all ages and body shapes just chilling in their suits, perfectly comfortable in their own skin. I nominate Budapest as the capital of Body Positivity.

Afterwards we went to a lovely little tea shop called 1000Tea, where I sipped on some elderberry tea. There were lots of nice, independently owned places like this near where we stayed. We even had great Thai food one night. Though there are definitely reminders of the brutal decades spent under Soviet rule, Budapest is a city coming into its own as a tourist destination. 

Getting to Budapest may have been a first-class leather-bound dream but leaving Budapest, well that was a little more complicated. Our next destination was Dubrovnik which isn't exactly easy to get to, at least from where we were. Flying from Zagreb would have been ideal, but by that time they were too expensive. Same with the ferry. So after running through a few scenerios it looked like our best bet was to take the train from Budapest to Zagreb ( an 8 hour journey) and then hop on a overnight (10 hour) bus to Dubrovnik. We could have shaved a few hours off of our trip but that would have involved changing trains which is a huge pain in the ass. So, in the name of simplicity we chose the longer, but less complicated route. Unsurprisingly, our train was no Railjet. It was pretty dated and the first-class cabins reminded me of an early 90s dentist's office--lots of pastels and busy prints. Of course, then we were kicked out when the first-class part of the train was literally taken away from us (those cars were then attached to another train) so it really was a case of not knowing what I had until it was gone. Sing it, Cinderella.

So, what do you do on an 8 hour train ride? Well, we played a lot of phone Jeopardy, performed a horrible edition of Name That Tune, imagined what life might be like in the town of Balatonszentgyorgy, and befriended the very old train attendant who implored us to come visit him in the dining car. All the while we were psyching ourselves up for the sure-to-be-uncomfortable bus ride that awaited us in Zagreb. 

Croatia's railway system isn't that great, but it has a pretty well-serviced bus system. The bus itself was nice, like Megabus or Greyhound, but it didn't have a bathroom. We freaked out a little bit at first until it became clear that the bus going to stop every hour or so for at least ten minutes. This may have made our journey longer, but negated the need for adult diapers. We left Zagreb at 9 pm and arrived in Dubrovnik around 7 am. I slept for a few hours but every time I looked out the window we seemed to be right at the edge of an insanely steep cliff, so I would quickly shut my eyes and pray for sleep to come.

Budapest had been a bit cold and was going through the first shades of autumn but when we woke up in Dubrovnik we were greeted by a warm breeze off the Adriatic and palm trees. Walking along its marble streets (yes, marble) filled with visitors one would have no idea that it was the site of a war 20 years earlier. Indeed, after Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991 Dubrovnik was attacked by the Yougoslav People's Army in a battle that lasted seven months. The city, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sustained some damage from the artillery shelling but was fully repaired by 2005.

In the last few years the city has become a popular tourist destination thanks in part to its use as a port on Mediterranean cruises as well as a filming location for HBO's Game of Thrones. One of my cousins is a GOT fanatic (to put it mildly) so I learned more than I ever wanted about where what was filmed for which episodes. But even without the GOT connection Dubrovnik is a beautiful and interesting city all on its own. After our 18-hour journey we stayed here for five days, the longest of the trip, and because we had just missed tourist season it was incredibly cheap. We rented a little apartment with a kitchen and patio with ocean views for $22 per person per night. This was our view. No, really:

Compared to the other places we had visited thus far Dubrovnik was easy. Mostly everything is centrally located in Old Town, the part of the city contained by Dubrovnik's famous walls, which was an easy walk from our apartment. October was also a great time to be there because it was the low season but the weather was still nice. Dubrovnik is tiny so it can get pretty crowded in the summer when up to three cruise ships a day dock in the harbor. Our landlord said that he doesn't even bother going to Old Town then because he can't even walk down the street. That's a shame because the streets of Dubrovnik are magic, especially in the later part of the day. 

On the day we arrived it was my cousin Samantha's 24th birthday so we tried to make up for those first few bus-bound hours by taking her to Mala Buza, a great bar that is literally built into the wall and offers amazing views of the sunset. Seriously, if you go to Dubrovnik you have to go to this bar for the sunset.  It's one of the few places where you can see the sun fully set on the ocean. It's still a great view every other time of day but the sunset, my God. It reminded me of Key West, a very laid back, celebratory vibe. Everyone clapped after the sun disappeared before heading off to their next stop. 

For us that meant D'Vino, a wine bar that had some great Croatian wines, including one of the best sav blancs I've ever had. This is a shot of the red wine flight we tried along with a selection of local cheeses, breads, and olives. I'm pretty sure I could live on Croatian bread, cheese, and wine. I probably wouldn't live very long, but it would be delicious and therefore worth it. 

Dubrovnik may be small but we actually had a lot of good food there, though most of it was of the meat, bread, and cheese variety that seemed to dominate much of our trip. Price-wise I'd put it on the same level as Prague, but because we were there for so long we ended up buying groceries and eating in more here than anywhere else. As for the sites, the city walls are the big attraction here and for good reason. You can walk around all of Old Town and get some amazing views of the city and the sea. Admission is $16, not exactly cheap, but it is well worth it and a must if you're here. I may have gone a little overboard with the photos here...

Another place for breathtaking views is from atop Mount Srd, which is accessible via a footpath, car, or the newly opened cable car, which we used.

See that island? That's Lokrum, accessible by ferry, and where we spent a day. It used to be inhabited by Benedictine monks until they left in 1808. 

 In 1856 Archduke Maximilian, a lesser Hapsburg, tried to build a palace there but supposedly the monks had cursed the island and after a few mysterious deaths the Hapsburgs fled, leaving behind the peacocks they brought which now rule in their absence.

Strangely, it is illegal to stay overnight on the island and has been largely undeveloped apart from the ruins of a fort and the monestary, which is now a pizza place. 

There's also a nude beach, if that's what you're in to, a botanical garden, and a swimming pond called the Dead Sea. 

After nearly two weeks of packed days and long journeys, it was nice to stop for awhile in Dubrovnik. This was the longest I had stayed put since Paris and by this time I was in need of a little R&R. 

The city's tourism seems to be ramping up as more and more visitors discover this jewel on the Adriatic and prices are steadily climbing as well. But for now, it is a bargain for the area and offers a rich and unique history all its own. 

I hope someday I'll return, but for now I have the memories.

Next time: All roads lead to Rome.

The Grand Tour Part 1: Oktoberfest, Prague, and Vienna

Nothing can be more unpresuming than this little volume. It contains the account of some desultory visits by a party of young people to scenes which are now so familiar to our countrymen, that few facts relating to them can be expected to have escaped the many more experienced and exact observers, who have sent their journals to the press--The Shelleys, History of a Six Weeks Tour

The Grand Tour has its roots in the 1600s, when wealthy young Englishmen recently graduated from Oxbridge would travel though Europe to get a cultural education in classical antiquity and the Renaissance. It also attracted artists and writers who sought to learn from the Old Masters in both arts and letters. With the invention of the steam engine in 1825, the practice extended to the middle class and by the end of the century it was even common for young women to make the trek. The traditional itinerary varied a bit depending on which countries were in style, but one always began in England and ended in Rome. Of course, I am neither rich nor a gentle(wo)man but even still, I figured I could use a little cultural polish. I had been to England, sure, but before this trip I hadn't traveled much in Europe aside from a weekend in Belgium. The great thing about traveling the world is that you can finally see what everyone has been talking about through your own lens. Some wonders will disappoint, while others will move you in unexpected ways, but in the end it is an experience that belongs solely to you.   

My personal journey began in London and then it was on to Paris followed by Munich where I was joined by two of my cousins for a train ride through the rest of Europe. Over the course of 21 days we travelled from Munich to Prague, Vienna, Budapest, Dubrovnik, and Rome. We each bought a Eurail Global pass, which is good for 10 days of travel within two months and includes 24 countries. It is also expensive and if you are over 26 you have to buy a first class ticket.  We bought this ticket because of the flexibility, but if you have a set itinery it is worth your time to price out the individual tickets to see if you'll actually save money.

Something else to consider: not all trains are equal. Our train from Vienna to Budapest was lovely--wide leather seats, complimentary wifi, snacks, etc--however, this was also our shortest journey by a lot (2 1/2 hours). The rest of the trains we took weren't anything special and often not that much different from second class. However, on most trains (except Italy)  a first class ticket gaurantees you a seat on the train even if you don't have a reservation. So, again, this ticket gave us maximum flexibility. It was one less thing for us to worry about while on the road. 

A first class ticket also meant we could hang out in this schmancy lounge for a couple hours in Vienna and have as many lattes and glass-bottled orange juices as we wanted. Additionally, all Eurail pass carriers get discounts on various activities and some times even free public transportation in certain cities, like Munich and Vienna. In Rome we were even able to use one of our travel days on the express train to the airport, so I suppose it really was worth it in the end. 

As for the actual traveling, yes it's nice to take the train, but only when you are literally in the act of travel--that is, sitting in your seat enjoying a glass of wine (the wine is necessary). Otherwise, it still involves all the  other bits that make travel a nightmare. Yet, because you don't have to go through security it has retained more of an air of romance than, say, the airplane. Because of our itinerary there were times when we were traveling all day (and night) so even though our journey was roughly three weeks, it still felt like we were whizzing through countries at an impossibly fast clip. It was just a taste, really. 

So, in keeping with that here are some moments from the first part of the Grand Tour:

Munich, or more specifically Oktoberfest, was a sea of beer, lederhosen, and dirndls. Seriously, this is not an exaggeration. Everyone wears them. Luckily, they sell them at the train station so you can pick one up if you want to fit in. I wore my dirndl again when I got home for Halloween, so I think I got my money's worth.

We went to Oktoberfest twice during our four days in Munich. During our first visit we got there at 10:30 am on a weekday but by that time all of the tents were full. The outside tables were mostly empty though so we sat down and ordered a round of 'Lemonade', which is beer mixed with Sprite. It's pretty gross but you can have a couple and not get completely hammered. An hour later even the outside was packed but we made some German friends and learned from them that in order to make it inside, you have to get there very early and wait in line. Reserving a table inside can cost thousands of dollars but it is free to sit there during the day.

A day later we forced ourselves to get up at 6 am to try to get inside. We reached the fairgrounds close to 7:30 but by then every tent already had a huge line. Even still, we managed to make it into the Augustiner-Festhalle tent, which looked like a set from "A Very Hobbit Christmas". I later learned that this tent is known for being the friendliest. Indeed it was, though I suppose everyone gets a little friendly after a few liters of beer.

I booked a lovely apartment in the suburb of Gilching through Airbnb. It was about 30 minutes from the Oktoberfest grounds but proved to be a peaceful oasis away from the crowds.

Between all the singing, cheering, drinking, and pork products I felt like I needed a vacation after Oktoberfest. I'm glad I went, but I'm not sure I ever need to go again.

In Prague we stayed in an apartment about five minutes walking distance from the main square, which is an architectural delight in a city full of them. We walked to the top of the Old Town Hall, which also houses the famous Astronomical Clock, to take in this marvelous view.

A trip to Prague wouldn't be complete without a stroll (or five) across the Charles bridge, which features artists, vendors, musicians, and street performers along with 30 statues of saints and patron saints.

We also learned about the history of the city during a visit to Prague Castle, situated on a hill above the city. It was the home of the kings of Bohemia and the Holy Roman Emperors. Good King Wencesclas, the subject of everyone's favorite Christmas carol, and Maria Therese, the grandmother of Europe, both lived there (during different centuries, of course).

In keeping with my earlier tradition in London and Paris, we took a sunset river cruise along the Vitava. I may have been with family, but not gonna lie. It was pretty romantic.

After we got our fill of Old Bohemia we were off to Vienna, 'the wedding cake of Europe', named for its many beautiful white buildings.

It is also known as the City of Music because prodigies like Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, and Strauss (among many others) all lived and worked here. Indeed, you can hear music everywhere. One of the highlights was walking through St. Stephen's Cathedral while an orchestra and choir performed Lacrimosa from Mozart's Requiem, one of my all-time favorites.

We stayed in a pension, a step between a hostel and a hotel, on a lovely street in the city center.  There weren't very many cars about and most people seemed to be either on foot or on bikes, which gave the streets a more relaxing feel. Not much of the same kind of hustle and bustle you get in other cities.

Vienna is famous for its cafes and our trip to the beautiful Cafe Central was a highlight. We were waited on by the most formal/bordering on snooty manchild I have ever seen. He was tall and skinny with the face of a 14-year-old, yet he was the most graceful and impeccable waiter I've ever had.

While there I had this chocolate raspberry deliciousness and a cappuccino which, at that point in my life, was the best I had ever had. But that was before Italy.

You can't go to Vienna and not visit one of the Hapsburg palaces. We chose Schonbrunn, the summer residence, because the palace and gardens are a UNESCO World Heritage site. There's also a labyrinth:

Labyrinths sound cool until you're wandering around one on a cold, rainy fall day with the beginnings of a fever. Then they are definitely NOT COOL.

We also made the trek to Beethoven's grave in the city's Central Cemetery and finally found it after looking for an hour.  Fellow composers Brahms, Schubert, and Strauss are also buried in the area known as Composer's Corner.

My dedication to food markets has been well documented on this blog, so it should come as no surprise that we spent an afternoon wandering around the Naschmarkt, the city's most popular market.

I was expecting Vienna to be pricey but really, nothing seemed that expensive after London. It's not cheap, for sure, but everything seemed to be pretty reasonable. Prague, however, was not as cheap as I was expecting. My cousin Katie had been there seven years earlier and said that the place was definitely more expensive than she remembered, and a bit more upmarket too. Again, it's still cheap for  Europe and in terms of value, it's high since the city is beautiful and remarkably well-preserved. I'm not sure if I'll ever return to any of these places unless it's in combination with some other destination. As part of the Grand Tour, certainly. I'm glad I went and enjoyed my time there but I can't really see myself getting on a plane and spending a week in just Prague or Vienna any time soon. Not when there's still so many other places to explore.

Part Two will pick up in Budapest!