Food, Glorious (Trip) Food

It should come as no surprise that food is an integral part of my travel experience and even though I wrote a fair amount about some memorable culinary delights, there was still a lot I left out. The foods mentioned here (broken down by city) shaped my trip as much as strolling along the Seine or climbing to the top of Saint Paul's. 

London

As you may know, I started off my trip housesitting in North London for a great family with the most wonderful dog ever. Before the fam left I was invited to dinner where I was exposed to British-style oven roasted potatoes. 

This sounds so stupid because, I mean, I've definitely had oven roasted potatoes many times here in the states, but these were different. Thanks to a dusting of cornstarch and some good fat these crispy potatoes come closer in taste and texture to french fries. I knew from the first bite that I wanted to make my own when I got home and I found a great recipe here on BBC Good Food. I subbed grapeseed oil for the goose fat instead of olive oil because it has a higher smoking point. (That basically means that grapeseed can withstand a higher temperature than olive oil.) It worked like a charm when I made these with a roast chicken last month and they are by far the best potatoes I've ever made.

Paris

I've already talked about the croissants and the duck confit and the rotisserie chicken so I'm just gonna plug the pastries here. What kind? Doesn't matter. Try them alllll. Laduree's famous macarons were amazing as were the tarts from Eric Keyser, although I'm sure anything from either of these two places is divine. Check out this pistachio-apricot tart: 

So pretty! 

It's worth a trip to Laduree just to see the store (I got scolded for taking this photo). We bought eight macarons and they were gone within an embarrassingly short amount of time. Rose petal, violet, and orange blossom were my favorites just because they were so different, but the more traditional flavors like pistachio and caramel were equally delicious and intense. 

Munich

I'll admit: I wasn't expecting a whole lot food-wise from Oktoberfest aside from giant beers, sausages and strudel but I was pleasantly surprised by a couple of things:

Cheesy Spatzle, which is the egg-noodle-meets-gnocchi dish pictured on the right (also notice the half-chicken. I finally had one!) and knodel, grated potato dumplings served in the most delicious dark beer sauce were revelations:

Unfortunately, both of these dishes involve a maddening level of steps and require tools (ricer, spatzle-maker) I don't have so I won't be recreating either of these any time soon. However, James and I plan on checking out the Munich Haus in Chicopee, MA at some point and if they have even passable versions of these dishes you'll be the first to know. 

Prague

Like Munich, Prague is a part of the Bohemian region and thus shares many of the same foods (meat, potatoes, bread, repeat). For our first meal we wanted something authentic so we checked out local favorite Hastalsky dedek. I had the (crazy cheap) duck which came with two different kinds of weird dumplings (think canned bread) and some absolutely delicious red cabbage. I'd eat a bowl of it if I could. In addition, the menu's English translations were...interesting. 

I came for the red cabbage, but stayed for the pig-slaughtering bread. And of course, a trip to Prague would not be complete without this: 

THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE.

Vienna

We're still in the land of meat and potatoes, people, but now we have Austrian coffee. Viennese coffeehouse culture is a huge part of Vienna and is even listed as a UNESCO Intangible Heritage so yeah, it's a pretty big deal. 

I chose the Ubersturzter Neumann, or Upside down Neumann, partially for the name and mostly for the whipped cream, which is put into an empty coffee cup while a double mocha is poured over it. 

Many Austrian coffees have very specific instructions for their preparation and presentation, which can seem a little overwhelming at first but is all part of the fun.

During our visit to the famous Cafe Sperl our waitress gave us a little booklet called the ABC of Coffee which helped explain the extensive offerings while making Starbucks look like McDonald's dollar menu. 

Budapest

Confession: I had a pretty bad cold during our two days in Budapest so I didn't really experience much in the way of Hungarian cuisine. I did make sure to have goulash for dinner on our first night and, from what I could taste, it was good and spicy. But my appetite was rather wain for most of the trip. However, we spent a nice afternoon at 1000 Teas, a cozy tea room with the largest tea menu I have ever seen. I had a pot of elderberry tea which was supposed to help with colds and I was good as new within a few days.

We also had some pretty great Thai food on our last night night, which was a welcomed break from the meat-and-potatoes express.

Dubrovnik

I've already rhapsodized about the wine, bread, and cheese so now I'm going to talk about the ham. Specifically, Dalmatian ham:

A thick-cut, smoked ham reminiscent of prosciutto, Dalmatian ham is a Croatian specialty and was featured on nearly every menu we saw. 

Dubrovnik also has a great selection of high end restaurants (many of which were out of our price range) but we had a particularly memorable meal at Lucin Kantun, a Mediterranean tapas-style restaurant that included a delicious stuffed squid and beef carpaccio. 

For our last meal in the walled city we decided to try something different and checked out Taj Mahal, a misleadingly named Bosnian restaurant. The food was a bit of a mix between Turkish and Greek--lots of spiced mets, phyllo, and yogurt. Katie ordered the sausages pictured above, which were a highlight, along with the teeny baked potatoes topped with thick yogurt.  

Rome

Oh Rome, I could write about your food forever. Instead, I'm  limiting myself to only three things:

We stopped at a random cafe for breakfast on our way to the Colosseum and happened upon the best breakfast pastry of the trip: coronetto (little horn) alla marmellata--a sort of Italian version of the croissant filled, in this case, with some kind of red jam or jelly. I'm not exactly sure what it was, actually. Marmellata can refer to what we think of as orange marmalade along with jam and conserves, but it didn't distinctly taste like raspberry or strawberry. If anything, it was some kind of mysterious red stuff. And man was it good. My cousin and I each had one and then we each got another before we left because well, when in Rome! 

We had the BEST meal at Nipotino del Solitario, a tiny traditional family-run restaurant in the Esquiline neighborhood. Everything was fresh, home-cooked authentic Italian food at a very reasonable price, but the carbonara was outstanding. So, so good. I still dream about this dish. I'll be dreaming about it for the rest of my life. In fact, I need to go make some carbonara right now....

(Twenty minutes later)

Nope. Not as good.

We had our second best meal at Piccolo Arancio an inventive and reasonably priced restaurant near the Trevi fountain, an area that can be a bit of a tourist trap. I had lasagna with saffron and zucchini flowers (a long-standing obsession) which was light and flavorful. 

Despite all this indulgence, I actually lost weight on this trip thanks to the hours of daily walking. But even if I hadn't it still would have been totally worth it.

The Grand Tour Part II: Budapest and Dubrovnik

After Vienna we boarded a Railjet train (the train that may or may not turn into a plane) for Budapest. This was when that expensive first class Eurail ticket was actually worth it--big leather seats, actual working wifi (!),  complimentary snacks, and entry into the first-class lounge before boarding. It was also our shortest trip at 2 1/2 hours because, of course. 

 The city is huge, one of the largest in the EU, and is separated by the Danube River (you know, this one) with Buda on one side and Pest on the other. We were only in town for a couple of nights though so I'm not sure we really got the full 'Budapest' experience, but it was the cheapest place we stayed--$11 per person per night for a triple in a pension in Buda. The thing I was most excited about though was the baths. The city is home to over 80 thermal springs that feed the baths enjoyed by locals and tourists alike (here's a good overview). After doing some research I decided to check out the famous Gellert Baths because it was within walking distance and is designed in the Art Nouveau style. I always base my bath house choices on which artistic movement they favor. Get out of here, Dadaists!

It's important to do your research because some baths are men or women only on certain days. We also couldn't figure out whether or not it was customary to wear bathing suits, but at Gellert everyone wore a suit and they even sold them in the lobby. 

Apparently it is one of the most photographed baths in the world but I felt a little weird taking pictures inside when people were relaxing, so here's a link to other people's photos. Really though, it is a beautiful building--just like you would imagine a Hungarian bath house to be.

In addition to a large Roman-style swimming pool, there are several outdoor pools as well as indoor thermal pools of varying degrees. My ever-present sore hip demanded that I head straight for the warmest pool, which was 106 degrees. After we spent some time in the warmer pools we decided to take the plunge in the 68 degree pool and after the initial shock it was actually really refreshing. When you get out your skin feels all warm and tingly and your muscles feel like they're expanding and contracting--it's hard to describe. We hopped around from pool to pool and every time I got to the cool one I tried to stay in longer, though I probably only worked my way up to a full minute. It was also really interesting to see so many different people of all ages and body shapes just chilling in their suits, perfectly comfortable in their own skin. I nominate Budapest as the capital of Body Positivity.

Afterwards we went to a lovely little tea shop called 1000Tea, where I sipped on some elderberry tea. There were lots of nice, independently owned places like this near where we stayed. We even had great Thai food one night. Though there are definitely reminders of the brutal decades spent under Soviet rule, Budapest is a city coming into its own as a tourist destination. 

Getting to Budapest may have been a first-class leather-bound dream but leaving Budapest, well that was a little more complicated. Our next destination was Dubrovnik which isn't exactly easy to get to, at least from where we were. Flying from Zagreb would have been ideal, but by that time they were too expensive. Same with the ferry. So after running through a few scenerios it looked like our best bet was to take the train from Budapest to Zagreb ( an 8 hour journey) and then hop on a overnight (10 hour) bus to Dubrovnik. We could have shaved a few hours off of our trip but that would have involved changing trains which is a huge pain in the ass. So, in the name of simplicity we chose the longer, but less complicated route. Unsurprisingly, our train was no Railjet. It was pretty dated and the first-class cabins reminded me of an early 90s dentist's office--lots of pastels and busy prints. Of course, then we were kicked out when the first-class part of the train was literally taken away from us (those cars were then attached to another train) so it really was a case of not knowing what I had until it was gone. Sing it, Cinderella.

So, what do you do on an 8 hour train ride? Well, we played a lot of phone Jeopardy, performed a horrible edition of Name That Tune, imagined what life might be like in the town of Balatonszentgyorgy, and befriended the very old train attendant who implored us to come visit him in the dining car. All the while we were psyching ourselves up for the sure-to-be-uncomfortable bus ride that awaited us in Zagreb. 

Croatia's railway system isn't that great, but it has a pretty well-serviced bus system. The bus itself was nice, like Megabus or Greyhound, but it didn't have a bathroom. We freaked out a little bit at first until it became clear that the bus going to stop every hour or so for at least ten minutes. This may have made our journey longer, but negated the need for adult diapers. We left Zagreb at 9 pm and arrived in Dubrovnik around 7 am. I slept for a few hours but every time I looked out the window we seemed to be right at the edge of an insanely steep cliff, so I would quickly shut my eyes and pray for sleep to come.

Budapest had been a bit cold and was going through the first shades of autumn but when we woke up in Dubrovnik we were greeted by a warm breeze off the Adriatic and palm trees. Walking along its marble streets (yes, marble) filled with visitors one would have no idea that it was the site of a war 20 years earlier. Indeed, after Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991 Dubrovnik was attacked by the Yougoslav People's Army in a battle that lasted seven months. The city, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sustained some damage from the artillery shelling but was fully repaired by 2005.

In the last few years the city has become a popular tourist destination thanks in part to its use as a port on Mediterranean cruises as well as a filming location for HBO's Game of Thrones. One of my cousins is a GOT fanatic (to put it mildly) so I learned more than I ever wanted about where what was filmed for which episodes. But even without the GOT connection Dubrovnik is a beautiful and interesting city all on its own. After our 18-hour journey we stayed here for five days, the longest of the trip, and because we had just missed tourist season it was incredibly cheap. We rented a little apartment with a kitchen and patio with ocean views for $22 per person per night. This was our view. No, really:

Compared to the other places we had visited thus far Dubrovnik was easy. Mostly everything is centrally located in Old Town, the part of the city contained by Dubrovnik's famous walls, which was an easy walk from our apartment. October was also a great time to be there because it was the low season but the weather was still nice. Dubrovnik is tiny so it can get pretty crowded in the summer when up to three cruise ships a day dock in the harbor. Our landlord said that he doesn't even bother going to Old Town then because he can't even walk down the street. That's a shame because the streets of Dubrovnik are magic, especially in the later part of the day. 

On the day we arrived it was my cousin Samantha's 24th birthday so we tried to make up for those first few bus-bound hours by taking her to Mala Buza, a great bar that is literally built into the wall and offers amazing views of the sunset. Seriously, if you go to Dubrovnik you have to go to this bar for the sunset.  It's one of the few places where you can see the sun fully set on the ocean. It's still a great view every other time of day but the sunset, my God. It reminded me of Key West, a very laid back, celebratory vibe. Everyone clapped after the sun disappeared before heading off to their next stop. 

For us that meant D'Vino, a wine bar that had some great Croatian wines, including one of the best sav blancs I've ever had. This is a shot of the red wine flight we tried along with a selection of local cheeses, breads, and olives. I'm pretty sure I could live on Croatian bread, cheese, and wine. I probably wouldn't live very long, but it would be delicious and therefore worth it. 

Dubrovnik may be small but we actually had a lot of good food there, though most of it was of the meat, bread, and cheese variety that seemed to dominate much of our trip. Price-wise I'd put it on the same level as Prague, but because we were there for so long we ended up buying groceries and eating in more here than anywhere else. As for the sites, the city walls are the big attraction here and for good reason. You can walk around all of Old Town and get some amazing views of the city and the sea. Admission is $16, not exactly cheap, but it is well worth it and a must if you're here. I may have gone a little overboard with the photos here...

Another place for breathtaking views is from atop Mount Srd, which is accessible via a footpath, car, or the newly opened cable car, which we used.

See that island? That's Lokrum, accessible by ferry, and where we spent a day. It used to be inhabited by Benedictine monks until they left in 1808. 

 In 1856 Archduke Maximilian, a lesser Hapsburg, tried to build a palace there but supposedly the monks had cursed the island and after a few mysterious deaths the Hapsburgs fled, leaving behind the peacocks they brought which now rule in their absence.

Strangely, it is illegal to stay overnight on the island and has been largely undeveloped apart from the ruins of a fort and the monestary, which is now a pizza place. 

There's also a nude beach, if that's what you're in to, a botanical garden, and a swimming pond called the Dead Sea. 

After nearly two weeks of packed days and long journeys, it was nice to stop for awhile in Dubrovnik. This was the longest I had stayed put since Paris and by this time I was in need of a little R&R. 

The city's tourism seems to be ramping up as more and more visitors discover this jewel on the Adriatic and prices are steadily climbing as well. But for now, it is a bargain for the area and offers a rich and unique history all its own. 

I hope someday I'll return, but for now I have the memories.

Next time: All roads lead to Rome.