Postcard From The Peak District: Austen, Bronte, The Plague, and Mr. Darcy

"We shall not be like other travelers, without being able to give one accurate idea of anything. We WILL know where we have gone--we WILL recollect what we have seen. Lakes, mountains, and rivers shall not be jumbled together in our imaginations"~Elizabeth Bennet

I first read about the Peaks District when it played a pivotal role in the plot of Pride and Prejudice: Elizabeth journeys to Derbyshire on a holiday with her aunt and uncle because the lakes were too far. As she says before their trip "What are young men to mountains?" Of course, it is also home to Mr. Darcy and, well, we all know how that worked out. 

But I became more aware of the area's outstanding natural beauty while watching one of the many television shows or films shot there.  The Peak District seems to have embraced it's association with televised costume dramas--but it's worth pointing out that before the location scouts came, the area served as inspiration for settings in both Jane Austen and Charlotte Bronte's most beloved works.

Some places let you down, like Epcot center or your local harvest fair. (Every fall I get duped into thinking fairs are cute and quaint but then when I go it's full of packs of rural teenagers huddled together gorging on cotton candy and wearing far too much eyeliner.) But, unlike Walt Disney's vision of the future or the Big E's cream puffs, England's Peak District surpasses your expectations. You can spend the whole time wondering if you've actually wandered onto a movie set. Pop in your headphones and play the soundtrack to Pride and Prejudice and you could be the star of your own film. Not that I would know anything about that...  

I stayed at a youth hostel in the tiny village of Eyam, also known as 'the plague village', because if you're me, you want to be as close to a historical bubonic plague site as possible. 

It looks like the quintessential English village--something you might come across in an Agatha Christie novel. Except instead of a disgruntled school marm or vengeful stable boy, the bubonic plague was doing most of the killing. 

The only thing scarier than the bubonic plague being delivered to your doorstep are awkwardly posed mannequins in bad wigs.

The downside to staying in Eyam was that when I had to actually get around the area I was at the mercy of the local bus system. I had prepared for this by spending far too much time on a TripAdvisor forum solely dedicated to the purpose of helping visitors without cars manage public transportation. I don't want to say it is impossible, because clearly I managed. But if you do go, I strongly suggest driving unless you like the idea of carrying your luggage up deceptively steep hills or returning to your hostel by 3 pm each afternoon. 

This photo is on an incline because I was on an incline. Also, llamas!

In Pride and Prejudice, the nearby (but poorly bus serviced) town of Bakewell fills in for Lambton--very pleasant, rather touristy and the namesake for Bakewell puddings and tarts. 

Though much like NYC's Original Ray's pizza there is much debate over which establishment was the first to offer it. My money is on The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop, mostly because it was the best one I had. 

A short (and frequent) bus ride away is Chatsworth, the grand estate of the Duke of Devonshire, and inspiration for Pemberley, the ancestral home of the Darcys. 

"It was a large, handsome stone building, standing well on rising ground, and backed by a ridge of high woody hills…"

In the 1995 miniseries starring little known actor Colin Firth, Lyme Park in Disley, a couple hours northwest of where I was,  served as Pemberly. But in the 2006 film version, Chatsworth takes on the part it was born to play. Perhaps it isn't surprising then that about a quarter of Chatsworth's giftshop is devoted exclusively to Mr. Darcy.This includes a greeting card featuring an illustration of Colin Firth making this face:

I actually felt embarrassed for a moment because such a thing actually exists for people to buy. I prefer this face instead:

"Dearest, loveliest Emily. You must allow me to tell you how ardently I admire the new Monsoon dress I bought for you."

"Yes, of course we can sit on the couch and watch the entirety of the television program Parks and Recreation. I too enjoy Ron Swanson's moustache and Andy's silly antics."

"Is it really necessary for me to walk around in this wetted shirt all afternoon? It is? Very well."

But, if I'm completely honest with myself, I probably would have bought the card if no one had been around and if the cash register was instead manned by a fancy robot with a British accent--think C3-PO in a powdered wig. I mean, who am I to judge? I had just spent the entire tour pretending to be Elizabeth Bennet during her inaugural visit to Pemberley. 

It was a bit difficult, what with the mob of tourists around, but if I closed my eyes and tried to ignore the swarms of old Germans on either side (it's always Germans), I could, for a very brief moment, hear Darcy calling to me from the boudoir. And, in that instance, he was definitely making this face:

After visiting Chatsworth I decided to check out Haddon Hall, a Tudor manor that was supposed to contrast nicely with the Georgian elegance of the former. And, like Chatsworth, it also has it's fair share of movie credits: The Princess Bride, Elizabeth, Jane Eyre, etc, etc. 

It was amazing. The place even smelled old, which probably sounds gross but really just added to the whole experience. 

But, I think it's very telling that there weren't any souvenirs of Orson Welles or Michael Fassbender as Mr. Rochester. There may have been some DVDs, but that's it. No one goes to bits over that character. I suppose he's a bit too dour for that sort of thing, plus there's the whole 'locking his first wife in the attic' debacle. Whereas Darcy may act all dark and serious, Rochester actually lives it. And it ain't pretty.

A little to the north, near the village of Hathersage, one can visit North Lees Hall, which was allegedly Charlotte Bronte's inspiration for Thornfield Hall in Jane Eyre and, as several area brochures made sure to mention, where Mrs. Rochester threw herself off the roof. First of all, spoiler alert? Secondly, what-- 'Home of Mr. Rochester' wasn't dramatic enough? Even the Peak District tourist board seems to adhere to the adage: "If it bleeds, it leads." Interestingly, Jane Eyre got her surname from a wealthy local family, and as is befitting a well-respected family, they now have several area pubs named after them. 

Hathersage is also home to Little John's grave, which made my earlier observation that the area reminded me of Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves slightly less embarrassing, and  

Stanage Edge, where you can recreate Keira Knightly's stance in the inferior non-Colin Firth version of Pride and Prejudice, as a twentysomething British guy helpfully informed me. Apparently he has a picture of himself doing the same pose. But, sadly on the day I traveled to Hathersage it poured for hours. I tried to wait it out but when the lone bus back to Eyam came, away I went. 

Travel Inspiration #1: Brit Film & TV

I have spent an inordinate amount of my life watching British films and tv series, especially since Netflix was invented. Growing up I was mostly at the mercy of my local PBS station or A&E so I was thrilled to finally have unlimited access to shows other than Monty Python, As Time Goes By, Pride & Prejudice, and whoever was playing Ms. Marple. 

But, as much as I enjoy the intricate story lines and compelling characters, with each new viewing I became more and more drawn to the landscape and settings: the Peak District, Yorkshire, Lyme Park--pretty much anywhere in Wiltshire. (IMDB has been incredibly helpful in providing filming locations.) 

Though I studied abroad in London for a summer, my time spent outside the city was limited to a few day trips here and there. So when I started planning my trip I knew I wanted to visit these places. (This was further compounded by my desire to visit certain literary landmarks like Haworth, but more on that later) Basically, I want my summer to look like both versions of  Pride and Prejudice, this version of Wuthering Heights, and 1993's The Secret Garden:

Source: Uploaded by user via Taiwan on Pinterest

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Source: uk-photos.co.uk via Emma on Pinterest

Source: flickr.com via BrendaGay on Pinterest

Source: dpreview.com via Michele Sarra on Pinterest

Source: ohyeahuknationalparks.tumblr.com via Joan on Pinterest

Anything look familiar?

Your Literary Adaptation Man Crush Interpreted

Hi, I'm Emily. I have a MA in English. This means that I usually win at Trivial Pursuit, sound smart at dinner parties, and can tell you all about the meaning behind your literary adaptation crush. Or at least try to:

 "What does a guy have to do to win a wet t-shirt contest around here?"

Why I Love Mr. Darcy: A Polite Rant

"Oh hey. I was just taking a swim in my own private lake..."

Ah, Pride and Prejudice. I first read it at 19 while going through some kind of relationship drama, and ever since then it has become the literary equivalent of comfort food for me. When life gets me down because dudes are acting like shitheads, it gives me hope that there’s a Mr. Darcy out there for me. Sure, I wouldn't mind a guy with a country seat in Derbyshire, but my attraction stems mainly from his character. Darcy is the embodiment of the phrase “Still waters run deep”. Oh, how they do.

But, what has always made him endearing to me is the transformation he undergoes. Yeah, he's a rich, snobby jerk in the beginning, but he changes because of his love for Lizzie. To quote Jack Nicholson's character, Melvin Udall, in As Good As It Gets: “You make me want to be a better man.” When I watched this movie with my mother, I didn't understand why this line made her cry--because I was only 13 at the time. But now, boy do I get it.

Rather than that well-worn notion of women wanting to tame “the bad boy” I think what we really want is a man who is willing to work for us. The truth is, most dudes don’t have to do a whole lot to get a nice girl, but they should have to do something.

One can see this scenario played out in the beginning of Lizzie and Darcy's relationship. He's used to acting however he wants and still getting the ladies, but she doesn’t take his crap and actually makes light of his behavior.

For example, when Darcy and Lizzie dance for the first time, Lizzie breaks Darcy's awkward silence: "It is your turn to say something now, Mr. Darcy. I talked about the dance, and you ought to make some kind of remark on the size of the room, or the number of couples."

You know Darcy would have just let the whole dance continue in silence. She’s the only person who calls him on his bullshit and it works! Through the course of the novel, Darcy eventually owns up to his faults and strives to change them, all for the woman he loves.

As he says:

I have been a selfish being all my life, in practice, though not in principle [...] I was spoiled by my parents, who [...] allowed, encouraged, almost taught me to be selfish and overbearing, to care for none beyond my own family circle, to think meanly of all the rest of the world, to wish at least to think meanly of their sense and worth compared to my own. Such I was, from eight to eight-and-twenty; and such I might still have been but for you, dearest, loveliest Elizabeth [...] you taught me a lesson, hard indeed at first, but most advantageous. [...] You showed me how insufficient were all my pretensions to please a woman worthy of being pleased.

I love that line: a woman worthy of being pleased. *sigh*

So, Darcy fucks up. Big time. But, he doesn’t give up. And, after Lizzie rejects him, rather than completely dismissing her criticisms of his behavior he ACTUALLY LISTENS TO HER. How novel!

He does what ever it takes to win her affection and surmounts numerous obstacles to ensure that they can have a life together. Dude puts in a little effort when things get tough. Lizzie isn’t the richest or the prettiest woman—but she is the smartest and she speaks her mind.

Of course, JA would write a female protagonist who's smart, sassy, and still manages to bag The Most Eligible Bachelor in England. Though she herself died unmarried, she is quoted as saying "I never found anyone worth giving up flirting for." Perhaps that's the lesson to take away from all of this. After all, even Mr. Darcy wasn't "Mr. Darcy" enough at first, but see what can happen if you wait just a few more chapters?

End Rant.

P.S. Colin Firth is hot.

In Which I Post About Something Besides Food...

Because I do actually have other interests, you know. This past Sunday I indulged in two of them: clothes shopping and pretending I still live in England. Allow me to explain...

Since it was reasonably nice weather a friend and I decided to do something outside. I suggested a visit to the Wadsworth Mansion in Middletown, Ct. It's known mainly as a place to have pricey weddings, but the parklands that surround the mansion are open to the public and really quite lovely. Apparently there will be an open air market on August 22nd--around the time I'm supposed to go home next--perhaps I'll visit. Now, I'll cop to possibly imagining this place as a potential venue for my imaginary wedding. (Hey, I figure it's as close to Pemberley as I'm ever gonna get) But after seeing the place in person, I'll admit I wasn't exactly blown away. Then again, I'm kind of a snob about these things. Moving on...

On the way to the mansion we drove by an antique shop called Never Say Goodbye that was set up inside a house. There was a pretty cool 50s ballgown blowing in the wind outside, so naturally I made my friend pull a U-turn. Though I may have been let down by the mansion, this place more than made up for it. Every room was transformed into a collectors dream and, quite frankly, I can't do the place justice. You'll just have to visit. The owner was incredibly nice and full of information and, best of all, more than willing to bargain. My friend got this amazing Miller High Life light up clock from the 60s for $25 and I got an adorable pair of pale blue vintage gloves for $8.

 Here's a shot of the kitchen...

A small sampling from the toy room...

And hats! So many! None fit me though :(

But, that's ok because then I went and got this one from Target.